Oops I Did It Again...Avoiding Accidental Eliminations

By Daniel Quagliozzi





Seriously, I could devote my entire career in cat behavior to diagnosing litterbox avoidance problems. It seems that cats miss their litter boxes more often then any other behavior issue and it's apparent that we humans are having a hard time trying to figure out why this is happening in such sacred places as our bathroom sinks, tubs , beds, couches or kitchen floors. What motivates a cat to suddenly designate your back pack as the place to leave a present? Look to the litterbox. All of the answers lie in your environment.

Let's talk about expectations first. Is it just me or do we all just EXPECT a cat to enter our home and know where to poop? Technology, human convenience and laziness on our parts has made it almost an assumption that if you put a litterbox in your home, no matter what size, shape, type of litter or location...the cat will go there. This is obviously not true.

Cats are picky and vulnerable when it comes to dropping their guard and going to the loo. They look for safe and easy places with no complications. Most likely, your litterbox located in the far back washroom, tucked under the sink, filled with colorful, scent fighting crystals will not be as attractive to your cat as it is to you. Kitty is looking for a basic bathroom with an easy entrance, no frills. un-scented, sand-like substances to cover up with and an escape route. The more complicated the picture, the less likely a cat is to be successful in your home environment.

Cats are sensitive to change. They can react to sudden changes in environment by making some adjustments of their own. Ever go away for three days and come back to find that your cat pooped on your bath matt? Discovered a smelly gift on your pillow? When routines suddenly break, cats fall apart at the seams. Some adjust and roll with the punches, while others tend to just go south. What can you do to avoid such surprises? Don't ever leave your home! Just kidding. No seriously, it's all about keeping things consistant. Try to have a friend check in and maintain your routines. Sure it's a lot of work, but no one ever said having a cat was going to be a low maintenance partnership.

Don't be fooled by gimmicks! No offense to the manufacturers of automated litter boxes, but cats don't generally want a robot to clean up after them. That's your job! Cats need efficient housekeepers that are ready to clean up on THEIR schedule.

Keep you litterboxes simple. Have more than one! Clean them like it's an OCD of yours. Your cat doesn't want to sit on a dirty toilet and neither do you.

Ok, lets review:

• 
  
  
  Find a litter that is appealing to the cat. NEVER use scented litter. Perfumed, chemical scents repel cats. Use a mild dishwashing liquid or hot water and vinegar for cleaning—not ammonia or other harsh chemicals which will leave an odor.
  


• 
  
  Texture is important, too. Generally speaking, the clumping type or gravel type of litter is most acceptable. The sand type is very popular, but as a health precaution for kittens under four months old, it may pose a problem as they may ingest the litter.
  


• 
  
  Cleanliness is absolutely essential! The single most common reason for a cat’s refusal to use a litterbox is because the box is dirty—no one likes a dirty bathroom. Clumping litter should be scooped daily, and the litterboxes washed weekly. Non-clumping litter should be scooped daily and the box emptied and washed every other day.
  


• 
  
  How many litterboxes do you need? Having one box per cat in the household, plus one extra is the best formula for success. Being the individuals they are, some cats prefer to urinate in one box and defecate in another. Some cats will refuse to use a box that another cat has already soiled.
  


• 
  
  Litterbox liners—they are often irritating to cats because their claws catch in the plastic. Covered litterboxes, or ones that are too small for the cat, may cause litterbox avoidance.The best location for litterboxes is a quiet, private place where they will not be disturbed by people or other pets. Noisy areas near washing machines, furnaces or under stairs may frighten the cat away from the box. Never place the litterbox close to food and water dishes.

Letting Go Is Never Easy

By Daniel Quagliozzi

It is with tremendous sorrow that I write this weeks blog entry. After 12 long and happy years, I was forced to make the hardest decision a pet guardian will ever make. My 18 year old companion; Matilda came to the end of her magical journey last week after battling many indignities that seemed to be adding up over the years. The onset of renal failure and her slowly accumulating cognitive dysfunction were making her daily life very difficult with basic needs like drinking, eating and walking becoming extremely difficult.

I could not bare to see my best friend decline this way, fully knowing that every one of her future days would be clouded with confusion, pain and discomfort. After long tear filled discussions with my wife, we made a promise to end her pain and let her go on in peace. A decision we would torment ourselves while still understaning it was righteous and necessary.

Matilda left us on August 28th, 2009. All the moments leading up to her final one were torturous. Saying goodbye to my best friend and trying to detach myself from her was something I quickly realized was going to be the hardest moment of our relationship. After all, Matilda was a truly unique friend that had so many memorable quirks. You may remember her from many blog posts in the past. My last hurrah for her was the story about how a friend watched her when I went to Hawaii. Matilda was ALWAYS by my side, starting the moment I would enter my apartment until the moment I fell asleep. We were always joined at the hip. In keeping with our commitment to each other, she never left my lap until she fell asleep that very last time.

You can imagine that there is a profound sense of emptiness in our home now. You find yourself looking for her in her normal places or hearing her when she is never going to be there, a transition I will never ever get used to. I smell her sweet smell. I still find things she hid in the corners or under the bed. Most of all I still expect her to be by my side, even though I know she always will be. My best friend is gone but forever in my heart.

For myself and others that choose to work in animal welfare, losing an animal that is close to you is very unique. You can't just go back to your desk job and forget your troubles. The next day, you are back in the shelter working with cats or dogs. There are reminders everywhere you turn. The best part is that you find yourself turning to your coworkers who support and understand everything you are going through. Yesterday, I cried on the bus, surrounded by strangers on the way to work. When I got to work, I cried among animal lovers who understood my pain.

Having worked in a shelter environment for over 7 years and seeing many cats come and go, I have been spared the pain of personal loss as Matilda was my first and only cat. I can honestly say that I am now looking at what I do for a living with a whole new perspective. Just when I thought my work was important, I now know just how much impact each cat has on the humans it touches. Matilda was a great ambassador for the cause and I will never ever forget her. I also know that she had fans all over the world. Readers of this blog would almost always respond in high numbers when I posted about her. Rest assured that she is in a peaceful place. Matilda is everywhere now.

If you are going through similar pain or loss of your animal companion, the SFSPCA has a Pet Loss Support Group once a month.

http://sfspca.org/programs-services/pet-loss-support

Pet Loss Support Group Sessions
No reservations are ever needed, and groups meet on the first Tuesday of every month in The SF/SPCA Humane Education Classroom, located at 243 Alabama Street. (View map) is staffed by volunteers from the UC Davis School of Veterinary Medicine

Web Sites
http://www.aplb.org/
http://www.petloss.com/
http://www.pet-loss.net/
http://www.cvma.net/list.asp?parentid=1303&title=pet_loss&titletype=pets&ptitle=Its+About+Pets
http://www.deltasociety.org/Page.aspx?pid=307

Cat Behavior: Don't take it personally!

By Daniel Quagliozzi

As a person who works not only with cats but also with their guardians, I often find myself counselling far beyond the scope of cat behavior. Human emotion is a huge factor in the way people perceive their cats actions. Can you blame us? We humans are so vested in each others feelings that it is very easy to equate the same perception to the way our cats view the world.

Did kitty suddenly pee on my pillow because he's mad at me? "My cat purposely knocks my hair brush into the toilet because he thinks I'm ignoring him and he knows how particular I am about my hair". "I was just sitting there minding my own business and my cat snuck up on me and bit my ankle! He HATES ME!!"

Believe it or not, cats care very little about how you feel, what you like, which shirt is your favorite and who you are dating. In fact, cats are quite selfish creatures. They almost always do things that are completely self serving. Ever find yourself getting up at 6 am to fill a food bowl or sitting on the edge of the couch where its less ideal because your cat prefers the middle? Cats are manipulators plain and simple and when they do things a little out of the ordinary (by human standards) they are not trying to hurt your feelings. They are however... trying to tell you that some things have to change!

Ok...perfect example: The cat who peed on your pillow. Chances are there is something about that litterbox that your cat is unhappy with. Did you forget to clean it, change the litter suddenly, add more cats to your home, go on a long vacation, have a mobile toddler running amok in the apartment? A sudden poop mishap or wayward pee points to stress, change or something new that may be triggering it. Why my boyfriends pillow? He must not approve of the guys I'm dating! No, chances are the box was such a turn off that a soft pillow was very inviting. Once the habit forms, the pillow becomes part of the regiment. Focus on what may be triggering the behavior and make things simpler.

The constant conversationalist: "Whenever I'm on the phone, my cat won't stop meowing? He must want me to get off the phone." I highly doubt that your cat knows what a phone is. Maybe he thinks you're talking to him? Usually when you talk to him, he is rewarded in some way. A treat, petting session, maybe even some playtime, will usually follow a human-cat conversation. Talking on the phone is such a tease!

The over the counter-knocker-over: Cats get bored! Could it be that your cat is knocking your pencils off the counter each day because you're not engaging her in long enough play sessions? Does she wake you up at night by making noise? Do you get up, yell or turn on a light? Guess what? You just rewarded your cat! Even responses we think are negative can be perceived as positive from a cats point of view.

The "Out of the Blue" attack: Sudden aggression without stress as a trigger almost always points to deprivation. Some cats need constant stimuli, plain and simple. Sure, most cats sleep all day and sleep even more at night. Other cats will count on you to provide them with entertainment, no matter how long your work day was or how little sleep you got because he was standing on your head all night. A sudden bite on the leg is an extreme cry for attention. PAY ATTENTION TO ME! Dancing With the Stars can wait!

Bite the bullet folks. You may have been at school for nine hours feeding your brain, but kitty was home with nothing to do all day. When you walk in the door, it's GO TIME! Get those toys out and get your cat engaged in play.


So, you see... it's not all your fault...but really it is. Don't take it personally. Just remember whose house you live in and who your boss really is and you will do just fine.

BEST NON PROFIT ...You better believe it!

THE SAN FRANCISCO SPCA WINS BEST OF THE BAY FOR BEST NON-PROFIT BY READERS OF SAN FRANCISCO BAY GUARDIAN


SAN FRANCISCO, AUGUST 13, 2009---The San Francisco SPCA (www.sfspca.org), the city’s leading privately supported, non-profit animal welfare organization, is thrilled to announce it has been voted the best non-profit by the San Francisco Bay Guardian’s annual “Best of the Bay”.

“Our core mission is to serve the animals of San Francisco and enhance the human-animal bond,” said Jan McHugh-Smith, president of The SF/SPCA. “We couldn’t be more excited to have the hard work of our dedicated staff and volunteers recognized as the ‘Best of the Bay.’ It’s an honor.”

The “Best of the Bay 2009,” which is voted on by the readers of the San Francisco Bay Guardian, is the 35th annual celebration of the people, places, and things that make living in San Francisco so great.

Aloha For Me... Alone Time for Her

By Daniel Quagliozzi

All of us deserve a vacation once and a while. Just some time to get away and go somewhere else, without a care in the world. But, as a cat guardian, it's often very hard to step away from our homes for more then a few days without calling in reinforcements to take care of our furry friends, while we bask in the sun or hike a mountain trail, miles away from home.

I am extremely fortunate to have friends and colleagues at the SF/SPCA that are available to look after my senior cat, Matilda. In her golden years, Matilda is not the kind of cat that you can just put out a fresh bowl of food and water and leave. She requires a savvy cat sitter who knows her well and can tell if she's feeling a little wonky. With cognitive dysfunctions, spinal arthritis, intermittent vomiting, low appetite and the need for subcutaneous fluids every few days, Matilda is quite the challenge to care for. Again, I am extremely lucky to have a great cat sitter that not only gives her love and attention, but was kind enough to document each day with pictures!

World's Best Cat Sitter : Donna watches over my broken down cat Matilda

If your cat is lower maintenance, the best thing to do for long absenses is to ask friends or hire a pet sitter to check in – to feed and provide fresh water, clean the litterbox, and groom your cat at least once a day. Ask them to engage in some interactive playtime with your cat. It will provide exercise and mental stimulation, and the exercise can reduce stress. Someone who is familiar with your cat is ideal.

If you are going away for more than 2 weeks, it is best to have someone who can spend the night at least a few times a week while you are away.

When hiring a cat-sitter:

• Get references from friends, your vet, or local animal rescue.
  



• You may prefer to use a pet-sitter who is bonded and insured, and they should offer you references if requested.
  



• Ideally, have the pet-sitter meet your cat before you hire them, to see how they interact with your cat.
  



• Make reservations early, as pet-sitters can get booked up quickly, especially during holidays.
  



• Leave carefully written instructions for the sitter about where food, litter and medications are located. Also note your cat’s preferences for grooming, treats, affection and interactive play.
  



• Buy extra supplies in case your travel plans change.
  



• Make sure your cat has an ID tag and microchip. Have current photos available in case she gets lost while you are gone.
  



• Have a friend who has a back up set of keys and is willing to be an emergency contact.
  Make sure the pet sitter has your contact information for the duration of your travels.
  



• Have a written letter authorizing the pet sitter to approve emergency veterinary care in your absence.
  


• A written contract outlining fees, method of payment, and the terms of the services offered (amount of time spent with pet, time of day they will visit, other services they will provide such as checking mail or watering plants) is recommended

Boarding

Sometimes there is no choice but to board your cat. Boarding can be stressful, as your cat will be out of their familiar territory, surrounded by strange people, noises, and smells. If you must board your cat:

• Call ahead of time; kennels book up quickly during holidays.
  Many vet offices and animal hospitals also do boarding.
  



• Visit the kennel before committing.
  Many kennels require proof of up-to-date vaccinations, so inquire ahead of time about what shots your cat might need.
  



• It’s best to bring along familiar items for your cat – bedding, something with your scent, toys and whatever food they currently eat. Also bring along any medications your cat needs.
  



• Give the kennel detailed information about your cat’s preferences and needs, as well as your contact information.
  
  

If your cat is staying at someone else’s house…

Although not ideal, sometimes you have to take kitty to another home to stay. A “safe room” should be provided for your cat – away from noise and other animals. Some cats will need to stay in one room for the duration of the visit, depending on how outgoing (or shy) your cat is and how comfortable they are with strangers, other animals, and new environments. Security is a big issue, so make sure there is no chance for your cat to escape (through open windows, cat doors or other doors left open) – if she does she will be lost and far from home.

RINGWORM: Winning the fight against fungus!

By Daniel Quagliozzi

When anyone mentions the word Ringworm, especially in animal shelters, the gut reaction is almost always to start itching. Blegh!!! Ringworm! It's a animal shelter reality and horror story all wrapped in one. It seems like every year, particularly in the summer, we are battling this fiesty fungus with everything we've got, due to the high volume of kittens and cats coming in from other shelters.

When one cat has ringworm, we have to bleach every kennel it has lived in, every carrier it was transported in and quaranteen every cat it was exposed to. Sound easy? Not if you have 30 or more cats that have transmitted or have been exposed to the fungus and every human that cleans, feeds and socializes the cat has to wear a surgical gown, rubber gloves and foot covers just to walk in the room and say hello.

RINGWORM FACTS

WHAT IS RINGWORM?

Ringworm is NOT A WORM, its actually a FUNGUS that creates lesions on the dead surface layers of skin, hair, and claws. It is a zoonotic disease, meaning it can be transmitted between people and animals. The infection is common, worldwide, and is similar to athlete’s foot. Ringworm is contagious to people and animals, and it appears in our shelter that we have the first stage of an outbreak of the fungus.

HOW IS IT TRANSMITTED?

The fungus is transmitted by spores that attach to the skin, which germinate to produce hyphae that invade the dead layers of skin and hair. Animals become infected either by direct contact with an infected animal or by exposure to a contaminated environment or object such as grooming tools or bedding.

WHAT DOES IT LOOK LIKE?

The signs of ringworm can vary, but most animals have the classic ringworm lesion: a circular red area of hair loss which is surrounded by broken hair and scale at the edge of the lesion. The lesions typically heal from the center as they enlarge peripherally. Other signs of ringworm may include patchy hair loss, itching, inflammation, and infection of the nails. In people, ringworm of the scalp usually begins as a small pimple that becomes larger, leaving scaly patches of temporary baldness. Infected hairs become brittle and break off easily. Yellowish crusty areas sometimes develop.



ARE YOU GETTING ITCHY?!?!?!?!

Ringworm of the body shows up as a flat, round patch anywhere on the skin except for the scalp and feet. As the rash gradually expands, its center clears to produce a ring. More than one patch might appear, and the patches can overlap. The area is sometimes itchy. Ringworm of the foot is also called athlete's foot. It appears as a scaling or cracking of the skin, especially between the toes.

HOW IS IT TREATED?

Animals are treated with an oral medication and lyme-sulfur dips. The treatment takes 4 to 8 weeks. Humans are treated with a cream you can purchase without a prescription. If the cream doesn’t work, your physician can prescribe medication that will kill the fungus.

Ok, now that you are sufficiently grossed out, go buy a tube of Lamasil, just to be safe!

I Love You, But Please Be Quiet!

Though cats communicate mostly by body language, some cats “talk” more than others. This is could be genetic (some breeds, such as the Siamese, are especially prone to this) and partly a learned behavior. It's even been said that cats have a Manipulative Meow!

Your cat may have learned that if she meows, people will talk to her, play with her, feed her, or even yell at her (trust me, I know this first hand). Remember for some cats negative attention is better than none at all. Some owners love to “talk” with their cats, back and forth, so if you have adopted your cat as an adult, it is possible that this behavior was encouraged by a prior owner. If you have brought Kitty up, then most likely you can think of things that have “rewarded” this behavior. Cats learn to communicate with us, just as we learn to communicate with them. Maybe when the litterbox is dirty, your cat draws your attention to it by walking around and meowing, and so you clean the box. This is how behavior patterns start.

Cats also meow to express discomfort or pain, agitation, and in some cases, territoriality. Unneutered (intact) male cats may yowl in conjunction with sexual behavior, and female cats in heat may meow excessively as well.

If you have a chatty cat, how can you stop or at least curb this habit?

Do Not Reward

This should be the backbone of your behavior modification plan. Pay attention to your kitty when she is being quiet, wait for a moment of silence before you feed her. Ignore her when she meows. If you are having trouble sleeping at night, you can try earplugs, or pulling the cover up over you head! Or you could close the door to your bedroom. Remember that if you break down and give your kitty attention, you will have to start all over again. For more information on how to prevent nighttime or early a.m. wakings, please ask for our handout on nocturnal kitties.

Make Sure Your Cat’s Needs Are Met!

Cats need attention and interaction, so make sure that somewhere in your daily schedule you allot times for play and petting. Cats like routine and will meow excessively if their routine is upset, so do try to do everything, especially if it’s cat related such as feeding and changing the litterbox, on a set schedule as much as you are able. Provide your cat with stimulation. Keeping your cats indoors is much safer, but they will need to be entertained and encouraged to exercise. Even indoor-outdoor cats need owner interaction and stimulation. New toys, bought or made, food cubes that make Kitty work to get her food, and the occasional catnip toy help keep her from getting bored. Interactive playtime is the best kind of playtime for cats- toys like fishing-pole toys that your cat can chase could be integrated into a daily routine. Make sure your cat has a clean litterbox, and fresh water at all times. Make sure her diet is adequate. .

Be Patient!

It takes time for cats to learn behaviors, and often takes even more time to unlearn them. In order to make a change in your cat’s meowing, you need to be very consistent and give your cat time to adjust.

Recognize When A Behavior Is Not Likely To Change:

You may be able to reduce the amount of attention-getting meowing or feeding-time meowing by ignoring, and feeding and playing at set times, but this will not cure a hard-core talker such as some Siamese or Siamese mix breeds are. These behaviors are characteristic of some breeds, and are not likely to go away in their entirety.


THESE SITUATIONS REQUIRE A DIFFERENT RESPONSE

If Your Cat Is Grieving:

If your cat has recently lost a companion, feline or human or even canine, he may walk around the house and meow, perhaps in search of them or just reacting to the change. While you don’t want to reward the meowing, it is important to give your cat extra reassurance in these cases, spending quality time, preferably on a schedule, until he adjusts to his loss.

If You Have Just Moved To A New Home, Or Have Just Brought A Cat Into Your Home:

It is normal, especially for an adult cat, to be disoriented and unsure in a new environment. Introducing your cat to the house gradually may help prevent some agitation (see our handout on introducing a cat to a new home.) Again, don’t reward the meowing, but be a little understanding in these instances. This behavior usually takes a few weeks to wind down.

If Your Normally Quiet Cat Has Become Very Vocal:

Make sure there is nothing medically wrong with her; schedule a check-up with your vet. Pay attention to environmental changes to see if something could be bothering her, such as a new stray cat coming by your back door.