Cat Behavior: Don't take it personally!

By Daniel Quagliozzi

As a person who works not only with cats but also with their guardians, I often find myself counselling far beyond the scope of cat behavior. Human emotion is a huge factor in the way people perceive their cats actions. Can you blame us? We humans are so vested in each others feelings that it is very easy to equate the same perception to the way our cats view the world.

Did kitty suddenly pee on my pillow because he's mad at me? "My cat purposely knocks my hair brush into the toilet because he thinks I'm ignoring him and he knows how particular I am about my hair". "I was just sitting there minding my own business and my cat snuck up on me and bit my ankle! He HATES ME!!"

Believe it or not, cats care very little about how you feel, what you like, which shirt is your favorite and who you are dating. In fact, cats are quite selfish creatures. They almost always do things that are completely self serving. Ever find yourself getting up at 6 am to fill a food bowl or sitting on the edge of the couch where its less ideal because your cat prefers the middle? Cats are manipulators plain and simple and when they do things a little out of the ordinary (by human standards) they are not trying to hurt your feelings. They are however... trying to tell you that some things have to change!

Ok...perfect example: The cat who peed on your pillow. Chances are there is something about that litterbox that your cat is unhappy with. Did you forget to clean it, change the litter suddenly, add more cats to your home, go on a long vacation, have a mobile toddler running amok in the apartment? A sudden poop mishap or wayward pee points to stress, change or something new that may be triggering it. Why my boyfriends pillow? He must not approve of the guys I'm dating! No, chances are the box was such a turn off that a soft pillow was very inviting. Once the habit forms, the pillow becomes part of the regiment. Focus on what may be triggering the behavior and make things simpler.

The constant conversationalist: "Whenever I'm on the phone, my cat won't stop meowing? He must want me to get off the phone." I highly doubt that your cat knows what a phone is. Maybe he thinks you're talking to him? Usually when you talk to him, he is rewarded in some way. A treat, petting session, maybe even some playtime, will usually follow a human-cat conversation. Talking on the phone is such a tease!

The over the counter-knocker-over: Cats get bored! Could it be that your cat is knocking your pencils off the counter each day because you're not engaging her in long enough play sessions? Does she wake you up at night by making noise? Do you get up, yell or turn on a light? Guess what? You just rewarded your cat! Even responses we think are negative can be perceived as positive from a cats point of view.

The "Out of the Blue" attack: Sudden aggression without stress as a trigger almost always points to deprivation. Some cats need constant stimuli, plain and simple. Sure, most cats sleep all day and sleep even more at night. Other cats will count on you to provide them with entertainment, no matter how long your work day was or how little sleep you got because he was standing on your head all night. A sudden bite on the leg is an extreme cry for attention. PAY ATTENTION TO ME! Dancing With the Stars can wait!

Bite the bullet folks. You may have been at school for nine hours feeding your brain, but kitty was home with nothing to do all day. When you walk in the door, it's GO TIME! Get those toys out and get your cat engaged in play.


So, you see... it's not all your fault...but really it is. Don't take it personally. Just remember whose house you live in and who your boss really is and you will do just fine.

When Cat Meets Dog....The road ahead can be rocky

By Daniel Quagliozzi

In all my years of working with cats in a shelter environment, perhaps the most popular question asked is; "Can you help me find a cat that will get along with my dog?" As simple as this question may appear to be, it's a huge math equation that requires a predictive approach to finding the answer. It involves guess work, prior knowledge about the independence and gregariousness of the cat and also some background on the resident dog. To put it frankly, it's very hard to answer without thumbing through an entire list of animals and trying to imagine them adapting.



So, to make things simpler for all of you to make these decisions on your own, I have compiled some tips to help you out with the search for the ultimate dog-friendly-feline.



Smoothing Out the Rocky Road Ahead:



The best predictor of how cats and dogs will get along together is their background. Have you walked past a cat with your dog? Did it growl, bark or lunge, or did it just get curious or not care? Audition your dog on leash with a willing cat that already has dog experience – they are less likely to run away and pee on your brand new Ikea sofa. It’s also good to try out the same cat on more than one occasion and to try out more than one cat. The trick will be finding this brave and un-frazzled feline. Some cats, or shall I say most cats ...will want nothing to do with this experiment.

Read up on the cats past history. If you are adopting from a shelter, ask the adoption staff to dig up any information on the cats prior experiences. This will be essential in trying to imagine how it will be effected by a dogs approach, play and general cohabitation.



Be aware that certain dog breeds are hard wired to chase small prey. A feisty terrier that digs holes in your yard and brings home dead critters may not be a good companion for a 2 month old kitten. Predatory types are much more stressful for cats and must be constantly managed when around the cat if they are to live with one. Predation is not something a dog can be easily trained not to do as it is deeply ingrained.

Cats who have not been socialized to dogs will almost always behave defensively, by fleeing and/or with an aggressive display the first time they encounter a new dog. If the dog does not come on too strong, and if the cat is given dog-free zones to retreatto, many cats will gradually get used to the dog and sometimes even become bonded.



Ok, So you did it. You combined a cat and a dog. What should you do to make your home more appealing to both?

• Have a “safety room” or rooms as well as high places the cat can access but the dog cannot. Baby-gates, cat doors and clearing high surfaces can accomplish this. It is important that the cat can retreat to regroup and relax away from the dog and then venture forward into “dog territory” at her own pace. The cat should have access to food, water and litter in this area so no interactions with the dog are forced.
  

• Never force the cat (or dog) into proximity by holding them, caging them or otherwise restricting them from escaping. This is defintely not going to help matters. Aside from it being inhumane, stress is a common reason for cats to break litter box training and nobody wants that!

• For the first introduction, have the dog on leash in case he decides to chase. If it seems to be going well, take the leash off and supervise closely.
  

• If the dog is behaving in a friendly and/or cautious way, try to not intervene in their interactions, except to praise and reward the dog for his good manners.

• Interrupt any intense chasing and try to redirect the dog’s attention to another activity – this is very difficult so you may be forced in future to manage the dog on-leash around the cat until you have worked out a routine or divided up the house.
  
  

• In the first few weeks, observe the trend: are things getting better or worse? Monitor interactions until there is a pattern or plateau in their relationship.
  

• If the dog is the newcomer, be sure to give plenty of extra attention to the cat so she does not associate this change with reduced attention and affection. If the newcomer is a cat, it’s also a good idea to make sure the dog associates the new intruder with good things for him. Shoot for positive associations always.
  

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  Dogs should not have access to the cat litterbox – it is too stressful for the cat and the dog may eat cat feces and litter. Most dogs will also eat cat food the cat leaves behind – we suggest feeding cats in the cat’s “safe” room or on a high surface.
  

If you are successful with getting the dog and cat to live in harmony, perhaps you want to try adding a rat for good measure?

P.S. we purposely chose pictures for this blog where the cat had the upper hand over the dog. Sorry dog lovers, Litter Did You Know is all about the CATS!!!!!

My Cat Ate My Snuggie™

By Daniel Quagliozzi

Has this ever happened to you? You're getting ready for another day at work and you decide to wear your favorite blouse...the very same blouse that has been sitting on the back of your chair for a week because you were too lazy to put it away after you got it back from the cleaners. As you put your arm through the sleeve, you notice there is a soggy hole in the side. Your cat has chewed another chunk out of your wardrobe. What the @*%!?!?! Guess what? Your cat has PICA!

What Is Pica?

Pica is the term for the repeated ingestion of non-food objects. Accidents will happen, this is true. Sometimes cats will unintentionally eat an object like yarn, string or even a plastic cord. It probably looked like a snake to them? Can you blame them?

Pica is quite different and happens when cats deliberately chew and swallow inedible materials. Common targets include wool blankets, plastic coated wires, rubber, plastic bags, even thumbtacks, hair ties & spare change . Often, individual cats will have different preferences- so the cat that eats wool may not eat rubber, or the cat that tries to eat your bobby pins may frown upon your hipster sweater. Some cats have a broad range of preferences. Though it might seem amusing to some people, it could result in a lethal ingestion for your cat. Yarn can get wound up in the digestive system and plastic can obstruct major organs. Luckily, most of the time, PICA is more annoying then it is deadly. No one wants to come home to find a huge soggy hole in their favorite shirt.

No one really knows for sure what causes this kind of eating disorder. Some veterinarians attribute it to a lack of fiber in the diet while behaviorist's may claim that it is caused by boredom or anxiety.

To rule out medical causes, a veterinarian should examine all cats displaying pica. Once your veterinarian gives your cat a clean bill of health, discuss with them what steps you can take to modify your cat's behavior. These may include the following:

1. Remove targeted items - Placing clothing, blankets, plastics and electric cords out of the reach of your cat is often the easiest solution. Storage containers, electric cord guards, and other useful items are available at most home supply stores. The upside of all of this is that your house or apartment is going to be super clean! NO MORE CLUTTER! I wish my cat had PICA. It would be great incentive for my wife to stop collecting shoes.

2. Provide alternative items to chew or eat - Food-dispensing toys, durable cat toys, or pieces of rawhide can be used to redirect your cat's chewing behavior to more appropriate and safe items. For cats attracted to houseplants, small flowerpots of grass or catnip can be planted and kept indoors.

3. Provide lots of structured play - Many cats chew on household items out of boredom. Provide interactive toys and set aside time each day to play with your cat. As mentioned in many blogs prior, exercise, play and environmental enrichment provide stimulation that will cure most miss-behaviors. A bored cat has more time to focus it's energy on misbehaving while an active and distracted cat will not have the time of day to devote to such foolish activities.

4. Increase dietary fiber - It may help to increase the amount of fiber in your cat's diet. High fiber foods usually contain fewer calories. Your cat may be able to satisfy their craving to eat more while still maintaining their weight. Consult with your veterinarian before making any changes to your cat's diet.

5. Make targeted items aversive - Occasionally, applying aversive substances (e.g. hot sauce, Bitter Apple®, Bandguard®) to an item may deter a cat from chewing it. If this is not possible, spraying strong smelling substances (e.g. citrus air freshener, potpourri) or using physical deterrents (e.g. upside down carpet runner, Ssscat®, Snappy Trainers®) around an object may prevent cats from approaching. Eventually, your cat will get tired and stop heading for the same places of obsession.

6. Consult with a veterinary behaviorist - If your cat continues to ingest non-food items, referral to a veterinary behaviorist is recommended. Further environmental and behavior modification plans, specifically tailored to your pet, may be needed. In some cases, medication may be helpful. Anti-anxiety medications can lower stress levels and help to subdue the ingestion of non-food items.

Hopefully, with the right guidance and a little bit of tidying up, your cat will no longer bite off anything bigger than they can chew! Buy more cat toys!!!!

Give Your Cat An Over-Stimulus Plan

By Daniel Quagliozzi

Just like people, cats are unique is so many ways, especially when it comes to petting and playing. Of all the activities a human can provide for a cat, they seem to love these two activities the most. Probably because it's near impossible for a cat to pet itself or wave a toy around. This my friends... is why we were put on this earth. Hands were made for petting cats, holding toys and opening cans of food! Well, from a cat's point of view anyway....

Your cat may think that your hands are only for petting and show no interest in an interactive toy. Or...perhaps your cat gets confused about your hands all together and decides to give you a bite whenever the opportunity knocks? The question is, when is it ok to pet and when should you stop?

Cats can get overstimulated from petting the same way humans can get annoyed from a bad back rub or too much physical interaction. Sometimes, you simply do not want to be touched or talked to for that matter. Ever get on a crowded bus after a long day at work and some stranger wants to tell you their life story? You want to get home and crawl into a ball.

Well, cats tell us their feelings in many ways, some obvious, others very subtle. Here are some clues:

Opposite of dog communication, cats often wag their tails when they are getting overstimulated from petting. Also, they will look at your hand as if to say, " Uh...you keep at this and I'm going to let you know when to stop... with my teeth". They will spin around and direct their heads back into your hand, a sly way of telling you where they prefer the attention or they might just simply walk away from the action all together. Remember, just because kitty is showing you the belly, doesn't necessarily mean it's an invitation for petting. Most likely, it's a trap!

In extreme cases, cats flatten their ears, roll the skin on their backs, dilate their pupils, kick your hand with their hind legs, growl, hiss and swat. If you've gotten to the point where you cat is showing this level of aggression, your going to need to be more aware of the limits they are trying to convey to you.

So what can you do to prevent an over-stimulus reality check? Be able to see it coming. Know that if your cat has bitten or swatted before that they are likely to do it again. Give breaks when your cat is getting antsy. Come back later and pet in small doses. Try re-directing the aggression to an appropriate toy instead. Never pet a cat that has bitten from over-petting while you are tending to something else. For instance, if your cat is sitting on your lap while you pet and watch TV. Chances are you won't see the bite coming!

The most common behavior mistake that people make is to "hand wrestle" with a cat that gets nippy. Some people think its cute or spunky, but what they are really doing is training a cat to think it's acceptable to bite harder and harder each time. Keep play and petting separate!

Cats that overstimulate are more likely to be playfully aggressive, mistaking your hands for toys. So... one more time...if your cat is biting at your hands in a playful way, withdraw the reward (your hand), maybe give a verbal correction like, "NO!" and re-direct the focus to a toy. Switch the routine to an option with more value for play than your fingers.

Low activity and boredom are likely to contribute to your cat's biting behavior more than anything else. You have to create an environment in your home that is stimulating and fun. Otherwise, it's going to be you that your cat uses as a toy. A few simple additions to your home environment can make any cat feel more at ease and a lot less likely to choose biting over play time, or even just looking out a window at the birds outside. Remember, although cat's do just fine living inside our homes, they were not intended to be couch potatoes. They need to exercise, climb, play, hunt and just be cats.